On Monday I met up with my old friend Matt Parry who had come up from England for some munro bagging. We had brought the day forwards from Tuesday, as initially the forecast had been poor, but actually both Monday and Tuesday turned out the same, but there you go.

We set off from the Cluanie Hotel at 08:45 after leaving a car at the site of the battle of Glen Shiel, where we planned to descend.  We made good time up to the first summit, Matt being fit and raring to go, and we were 45mins ahead of guidebook time at that point. From then on, as anyone who has done the ridge knows, it is a series of descents and re-ascents as you make your way along the 14km length. The views were good to begin with, but we were soon engulfed by the encroaching front, and spent the next 5 munro summits in thick clag and rain. That almost spurred us on, as there was no point dilly-dallying, especially as we were damp, it was only 3c, and therefore cold in the wind too.

As we approached the path which skirts Sgurr Beag to give access to the final munro of Creag nam Daimh, the rain slowed a little, and the clouds parted. This is always good for the spirit, so despite being tired, we made the last ascent in quick time, satisfied with our haul of 7 munros. 

There is little to commend the descent Northwards, other than the excellent stalker's path at 400m. Initially the ridge is steep and in the wet conditions, not very pleasant, but that was nothing compared to the horrible path through the plantation. A great route, but a grim walk off! Maybe better to do the extra distance Westwards and come down the coire? I cannot recall, as it was a long time ago when I last did it.

​We made the car in 9.5hrs, a good time for such a long route. Needless to say, the first pint went down a treat that evening.

My friend and climbing partner Caroline had been after climbing the 'bobbly' ridge (as she calls it) for years. It is the West ridge that leads onto Beinn Fhada in Kintail. After some research, we decided to do it in descent, as that allows an ascent of the slabby scramble out of the Hunter's Pass, a 'bad step' on the ridge. 
The weather was splendid, and we spent a long time basking at the summit of Beinn Fhada before following two folks with two labradors across the broad plateau and on to the ridge. 'It must be easier than we thought' we said, as we watched them slowly scramble along the easy start. We overtook them, and after some more very easy down scrambling, got to the bealach.
Then we questioned how they intended getting the dogs safely up the steep section once we saw it - It is relatively easy scrambling, especially in the dry conditions, but a slip would be serious, and in the wet it would be horrible. We enjoyed ourselves on it however, but were relieved to see the folks turn tail (sic) after having watched us negotiate it. 
We did some more gratuitous basking, soaking up the rays and the views over Morvich before setting off on the continuation to the summit of Sgurr a'Coire Gairbh. This was much gnarlier than we had hoped, and the rock was very slippy and lichenous in the shade, and indeed still frozen in places. After what seemed like an age, we got to easier ground, but even that was unpleasant and steep, so it was with relief we hit the track to Morvich and our cars. It's a real shame the rest of the route is so unpleasant and rough, as the initial 'bobbles' are really nice, as is the ascent of the slabs. The rest of it doesn't really make it worthwhile however.

On Sunday we opted for the Pinnacle Ridge of Sgurr nan Gillean, a route I have done a good few times, but one which Caroline hadn't, so off we went. The weather was still good for October, cool, but with no wind and high blanket cloud. The scramble up the initial gully onto the first pinnacle is always a loose and chossy affair, and this was no different, so I was glad to be out onto the ridge proper.
We were soon at the top of the second pinnacle, and I set about rigging the abseil. Caroline had been confident about this up to now, having abseiled a lot previously, but the difficult 'launch' unnerved her a little. It is tricky, but once committed to, it's fine, and moved steadily and safely up to the Knight's Peak. Here there is a loose and horrible down-climb, and I much prefer to abseil off this too, so was pleased to see some shiny ab tat for just that, and we were soon on the final climb.
I chose to make a pitch of this, as the steep initial move can be problematic for shorter folks, but Caroline was fine, and we moved together to the top, where we met a couple having a late lunch. After photos, they set off, and I got a great picture of one of them on the West Ridge descent. We caught them up at Nicholson's Chimney, the final abseil, and they were kind enough to let us use their rope, so we were soon down that and onto the steep scree path descent into Coire Bastier and onwards to the car.

​A great weekend, and two nice big ridge ticks in the book for Caroline!

On Friday Katie and I did the Zig-Zags onto Gearr Aonach in Glencoe, and then over Stob Coire nan Lochan, Bidean nam Bian and Stob Coire Sgreamhach, before descending the Lost Valley. All in wonderful autumnal weather. A great day out, which I am not sure is helping Katie come to terms with her having to leave Scotland soon, but we both certainly enjoyed it.
This is her blog that explains her feelings - ​http://justyandrick.blogspot.co.uk/2015/10/mountains-scrambling-and-foreboding-joy.html

Yesterday I was privileged to be working for Steven Fallon Mountain Guides in the most glorious weather, assisting George 'compleat' his final munro on An Teallach, a campaign that had taken him more than 30 years. An absolutely splendid day on the hill, and congratulations to George. More blog at ​http://stevenfallon.blogspot.co.uk/

Over the last weekend I was up in Torridon, working for Steven Fallon Mountain Guides, doing the Big Three of Beinn Alligin, Beinn Eighe and Liathach. For full blog go to ​http://stevenfallon.blogspot.co.uk/

My pal Kerry Gutteridge got in touch recently, having recovered from her pneumonia, and wanted to get out on some rock. Eagle Ridge on Lochnagar was the first plan, but having had a wee epic on it many years ago in October, as my first real multi-pitch climb, in October, in the wet, we decided on a shorter and (slightly) easier option in Savage Slit S*** on Coire Lochain.
We knew it would be cold, forecast 7c at 900m, and it was North facing, but at least it would be out of the wind, and maybe, maybe, it would be dry after this spell of decent weather? Aye, right! The first pitch was dripping, and at only Mod, Kerry still congratulated me on a good lead! We looked up, and the steeper rock did look drier - Oh the optimism of the climber when neither of you want to be the one to sack it.
There was a party behind us now, and thankfully they were really decent chaps, happy to wait while Kerry concentrated on her first Severe lead, in the wet, in the cold. She soon got in the swing, and stitched the pitch right up, relieved as she was to get to the excellent belay. I apparently made the seconding look easy, but it didn't feel like it, and my hands and feet were numb, adding to the level of discomfort. Note to self: Put your bloody belay jacket on!
I led off the third pitch, and it was a proper thrutch, made problematic by the fact I had elected to climb with sacks. I didn't want to descend the horrible loose path after abbing off, and always prefer a full route to the summit as it were anyway. I am not sure Kerry concurred as she huffed and puffed to join me at what we now know was an intermediate belay. It was a spacious and well-equipped ledge, so I took it. That meant Kerry had to finish the last 5 or so metres, once again up a difficult thrutch. Whoops, sorry. Once over this, you climb the sort of arete for a short while before getting to the belay proper, and the ab station if you don't elect to do the final, loose and chossy pitch.
I led this, which you have to tread carefully for the loose and slimy rock, including an off-balance move up a short wall that was interesting. Then it was just a case of a nice final belay to bring Kerry up, and a celebratory sandwich.
We were back at the car park for a mocha by 15:30, pleased to have got a route in less than optimal conditions, and pleased that even in the wet, we climbed it safely and calmly, despite our initial reservations. It must be a great route in the dry and warm!
Now off to Torridon this evening for work, Beinn Alligin, Beinn Eighe, Liathach and An Teallach. Fingers crossed for the weather.

This weekend I was working for Steven Fallon Mountain Guides on a mixed bag of routes around Spean Bridge. On Saturday, myself, Dave Buckett and Martin McDermott took a large group of folks over the whole of the Grey Corries. Then Dave and I took a smaller group over the Easains on Sunday, as well as tagging on the splendid Corbetts of Sgurr Innse and Cruach Innse. Then on Monday, due to a less than favourable forecast, I took a small group up Meall na Teanga and Sron a'Coire Gairbh above Loch Lochy, rather than risk a blowy old time on the CMD arete.

For the full blog, visit ​http://stevenfallon.blogspot.co.uk/