07967 002260
Johnny Walker Mountain Leading
  • Home
  • About
    • About
    • Useful Links >
      • Scottish Avalanche Information Service
      • Mountain Weather Information Service
      • Mountaineering Council of Scotland
      • Mountain Training Association
    • Gallery
    • Contact
  • Why hire me?
    • Why hire me?
    • Summer
    • Winter and Winter Courses
  • Booking
    • Booking
    • Price List
    • Kitlists
    • Booking Terms and Conditions
    • Availability
  • Testimonials
  • Blog

Welcome to my blog

I don't always write a blog, and indeed some of the companies I work for as a freelancer specifically insist that I don't, but I do occasionally like to put my thoughts and trips into words for posterity, by way of a wee diary, and also an illustration of what I get up to with folks. I do hope you find it interesting, and would welcome any feedback or comments.
The best way to search my Archive to see if anything is of interest to you is to type into Google 'johnnywalker.co.uk', then a space, then your query, e.g. 'Arrochar', and you will get a selection of pages and blogs

Google Search

Oh Brothers, oh Sisters

27/7/2015

2 Comments

 
At the weekend I was working for Steven Fallon Mountain Guides in Kintail, along with the inimitable Manny Gorman. We had a good forecast for Saturday given the long run of unsettled conditions, with showers but light winds. Sunday looked less good, but actually turned out to be dry, if a little windier and cooler at 9c.

The first day was the 'Brothers of Kintail', and we met at the Cluanie Inn car park, (very handy for refreshment at the end of a walk one finds). After some car shuffling, we set off around 9am. It was a large group of myself and Manny along with Laura, Beth, Diane, Michael, Roger, Johnston, Neil, Rosalind, Helen, Christina and Gordon, so there were plenty of folks to chat with as we plodded up the grassy and wet ascent of Ciste Dhubh, our first munro. There is an airy path that skirts the sharp feature of An Cnapach, and this then leads onto the narrowing ridge to the summit, where there is a broad mossy bank for a snack and rest. It is then a long descent to rather lower than one would like before another grassy pull up on to the false summit of Sgurr an Fhurail at 987m. Another up and down leads to the second munro of Aonach Meadhoin. By then it would be fair to say some of the group were realising these Kintail hills are both stunningly beautiful but steep!

The next summit of Sgurr a'Bhealaich Dheirg has a little scrambling to a large airy cairn, and we all had some fun taking various posed pics and scrambling along various lines on the ridge. From there the dramatic ridge line to the Five Sisters of Kintail stretches out in from of you, and it looks like the route goes on forever! One of the guys asked tentatively 'is that the next one'?, and I assured her we couldn't see our next hill, which was nearer, but smaller, and therefore hidden from view. I think my reply was viewed as 'guide speak' (like we do! ;), and there was relief when the summit of Saileag did come into view, much closer on the ridge.

We lingered on Saileag, taking in the next day's walk which was tantalisingly laid out in front of us in the afternoon sun. Then came the descent. It is a steep and badly eroded path from the Bealach an Lapain, and has become even more eroded since the munros have become ever more popular.  So whilst relatively quick, it is hard on the knees, needs concentration, and is very wet and boggy where it isn't stony. We all made our own way down in our own way, with a variety of pirouetted tumbles and slips. Thankfully they only resulted in wet backsides and bruised egos, but it was with relief and wobbly legs that we all got down to the cars eventually. I don't think I need to use much poetic prose to illustrate how keen the guys were on the following days ascent up the same slope, but Johnston's exclamation that it was an hour of 'unremitting gutrot' did make us giggle.

Sunday morning found us back at the foot of the 'unremitting gutrot' again after leaving cars further down the glen. The plan was to do the munros that make up part of the Five Sisters of Kintail. There was a good deal of gallows humour as we set off, but the consensus was that it wouldn't be so bad in ascent, and it wasn't. We really did motor up the hillside, blowing the stiffness out of our legs by an all-out assault on the 600m of direct ascent, no stopping. We felt like we had achieved a summit once we attained the bealach!

The continuation ridge and the three munros must be one of Scotland's finest walks, and the effort of the undulations is forgotten with just one look at the views. The ever-present cloud never touched the summits, and indeed cleared off the summit of the distant Ben Nevis at times, but it did enhance the definition of the hills. We could see Rum and the Skye ridge, North to Torridon, and of course many hills to our South such as Knoydart etc.

There is one small down scramble before the first munro of Sgurr na Ciste Duibhe, but the rest is simply rocky paths. On the summit, we were joined by a young lady to whom Manny asked 'where have you come up from'? She replied 'France', much to everyone's amusement and her embarrassment! We told her we were suitably impressed at her speed!

The next summit was Sgurr na Carnach, and the final one Sgurr Fhuaran. On this one Christina and Helen both celebrated their First Fifty munros, and were accordingly accepted into the Society of Committed Munro Loonies.....i.e. They are now officially hooked.

It was here we had a decision to make. Make the easy but steep descent down the WNW ridge of Sgurr Fhuaran, or continue over the rest of the Five Sisters. Roger was keen to press on, but the majority of the team felt they had achieved an awful lot in the two days, with a not inconsiderable ascent/descent metreage. We therefore elected for the knee-jarring but direct descent, which also benefits from great views up Loch Duich in front of you the whole way.

It is here I think a special mention should go out to Laura and Michael. Laura is very new to munro bagging, having returned to the hills after a good lay-off, yet she kept smiling the whole way despite her tiredness. Michael by his own admission doesn't get out quite as often as he would like, and took a small tumble on the Saturday pulling his groin. Despite this, he battled on stoically, and never ceased to be cheerful and happy. He had given 99% by the time we got to the last burn crossing where the team kindly waited for us, and the final 1% was lifting his leg over a large boulder to cross. No-one could have asked for more, so very well done!

All we had left between the cars and us was the River Shiel. Manny smugly produced his crocs for the paddle across. We looked briefly at him, at the water, and at the cars, and all just charged across! What price some damp socks when a rest, a meal and a pint is in the offing!?

A fantastic two days. Super hills, great company, and for once this year, almost good weather!

2 Comments

'If Carlsberg did mountains.....'

24/7/2015

2 Comments

 
For our final day together, we decided on a split route. Colm wanted to have a crack at the zigzag route on Gearr Aonach, which is one of the Three Sisters of Glencoe, whilst Matt opted for the less technical walk up the beautiful Coire an Lochan. We planned to meet on the NE ridge of Stob Coire nan Lochan.

The plan worked a treat, and Colm and I had a blast on the top-end Grade 1 scrambling up the zigzags. The final wall has a technical move around a bulge that always gets the pulse racing, and we enjoyed the problem solving, finding the hidden undercut hold that is the key to the move.

Matt was a little chilled by the time we got to him, so we headed on up quickly, with the narrowing ridge always good fun, but never too tricky. We picked out a few spicier lines to enhance the ascent, and were soon on the summit, (which all agree should be a munro). It was then a misty descent and re-ascent onto the highest mountain in Argyll, Bidean nam Bian, which did a good line in looming views in the cloud. We rested on the cloudy summit a while chatting to some Americans, before the views suddenly revealed themselves.....wonderful. The Americans thankfully took my advice and saved themselves a very long road walk up the valley had they taken their planned route!

Buoyed by the expansive views and improving weather, we then headed for our second munro, Stob Coire Sgreamhach, before taking the eroded gully down into the Hidden Valley, as beautiful as ever. It would be fair to say the lads didn't enjoy the scree, but had a laugh trying to glissade down the snow patch (at the end of July....I mean for heaven's sake!).

The beauty of this walk just keeps on coming right until the very end, end even then you can look back up the valleys and buttresses and think 'did we really just climb those'?

Glencoe.....If Carlsberg did mountains.....

2 Comments

A rest day. Aye, right..... ;)

23/7/2015

0 Comments

 
Matt and Colm wanted a rest day following our day out on Beinn a'Bhethir (and a good blether in the Clachaig of course), so we met up at the Nevisport cafe in Fort William and had an afternoon covering the basics of navigation. Then it was off up Glen Nevis to put it into practice on the picturesque walk into Steall meadows, and the beautiful Steall Falls. Colm 'enjoyed' the wire bridge, whilst Matt swithered, only to decide discretion had the better part of valour.

We enjoyed ourselves so much we decided to do a little more navigation later on that evening. So, after getting fed, we met up at 22:00 for a night ascent of the Pap of Glencoe, a mere 742m. I mean, what's a little darkness, rain and 35mph gusts between friends?

The emotions ran between exhilaration, deep concentration (on your footwork in the wet, windy conditions), tiredness and relief, in varying quantities. We made the bottom by 03:30am, and the Sundance Motorhome pub was still open, so a wee dram was taken to dull the aches before getting to bed for a well earned rest from the rest!
0 Comments

Schoolhouse Ridge. So good, I did it twice

22/7/2015

2 Comments

 
Yesterday I met up with some old school friends, Matt and Colm, who had travelled up from England. They are just getting towards that dangerous amount of munros that signifies glorious obsession, though it is fair to say Colm has the bug more than Matt at this time.....but time will tell!

Colm's wish-list was all the classics in Glencoe, whilst keeping an informed eye on the weather. We therefore decided on Beinn a'Bhethir, with its two munros, but via the excellent Schoolhouse ridge that I had recently ascended. The forecast was an improving one again, so we had a leisurely start, shuffling cars around to limit the walk out.

The initially boggy feint path from Ballachulish gives way to broken rocky steps on the ridge, with the odd short steep scramble. The chaps are relatively new to scrambling, (other than a saunter up the Ledge Route of Ben Nevis with me a few years ago), so we spent some time revising our footwork skills and how to keep balanced as we progressed. Rocky crest after knoll came and went, and before long we reached the summit of Sgorr Bhan, an outlying top of Sgorr Dearg, the first munro. Here the ridge sweeps majestically upwards, and the views were expansive and ever widening as we gained height.

The first summit was at 1024m, our highest point of the day, and we could see onwards to Sgorr Dhonuill, our second, at 1001m. There is a descent to 757m down a path so defined I swear it has chicanes, and then a grassy ascent leading to boulders and finally a small scramble to the summit. We had timed ourselves from the bealach against Naismith's Rule, (by which walkers can assess how long it will take to complete a route), and having given ourselves 38 minutes, we arived in 37 minutes and 20 seconds. We'll take that.

Unfortunately here we were in mist again, so my fourth visit gave me no more of a view than my previous three. Grrr. After a summit photo, it was back down to the bealach for a quick bit to eat before dropping into the coire and finding the new path.

We didn't see a soul all day, probably due to the perpetually driech forecast, yet for the fourth day in a row, the forecast has turned out to be pessimistic, and we have had a great days. Long may that continue!

2 Comments

A-scrambling we will go!

20/7/2015

0 Comments

 
This weekend I have been working for Steven Fallon Mountain Guides. We planned it as 'Glencoe Scrambles', but with the forecast appalling for Saturday had to shuffle the days around from those planned. Thankfully it didn't inconvenience too many of the clients.

We decided to do the Round of Coire Iubhair on Ardgour first, taking in the atmospheric and rocky Garbh Bheinn.  I am a real fan of this peak, and if it were a munro, it would number very highly in most people's top ten if you ask me. By this route it has a long, logical approach, which gives you a full view of the rocky aspects, then a very secluded lochan and bealach, an utterly improbable gully climb and then a low-grade scramblefest up immaculate rock to the top. All this, and some classic top-end scrambling too in the form of the Great Ridge and Pinnacle Ridge if you are so inclined. What's not to like!?

Our team of myself, Stephen, Victoria, Sue, Hayley, Issy, Gill and Diane did the round in 9 hours, in heavy rain and poor visibility at first, not to mention the 50mph SW wind. It was forecast to improve, and it did. By 2pm we had drier weather, and by 4pm it was pleasant, calm and warm. We delivered some coaching on simple scrambling techniques, and then practiced them as we went, the novices getting ever more confident. It is fair to say a couple of the guys were feeling the physical rigours of the gnarly route by the descent, but I am sure all enjoyed it.

Sunday was a varied forecast, starting wet, drying up, then raining again late afternoon. The team was joined by Lorne and Mags for the day. We delayed the start to 10am again, and it paid dividends, as the rain ceased as we walked over the bridge at the foot of the Hidden Valley. With waterproofs off (hurriedly due to the midges), we made progress to the start of the Zigzags on Gearr Aonach, but unfortunately Diane was feeling the effects of a recent stomach upset along with the efforts of the previous day, so she turned back to save herself for Monday.

The rest of us pressed on, and had an exhilarating time on the scrambles, somewhat augmented from their Grade 1 status by the damp. The crux was the off-balance move around a bulge towards the top, and we were lucky to be able to watch another guide coax his party past it, which made our progress easier and better informed with regards to the holds. We made steady progress along the broad ridge before some more great scrambling on the NE ridge of Stob Coire nan Lochan.  The summit of Bidean nam Bian brought our first munro, (much to Hayley's chagrin, who intends to 'write a strongly worded letter to the SMC as to why Stob Coire nan Lochan isn't a munro after all this effort'), along with superlative 360 degree views. It was clear that despite making reasonable progress, the wet scrambling had eaten into our time, and the plan of continuing down along the Beinn Fhada ridge after Stob Coire Sgreamhach was probably a little much. It's not a bad route that has a descent via Coire Gabhail (or the Hidden Valley) in reserve. It is known as such due to its seclusion from the road, and the fact the Macdonalds used to hide their rustled cattle there. The survivors of the Glencoe massacre are reputed to have fled to there too, so it oozes atmosphere.

The initial eroded gully is unpleasant, but it soon gives way to a good path and the surprising meadow, before dropping to the valley below. One of the team stated it was her best ever hill day, and who am I to argue! Steven played a blinder too by producing Cornettos for everyone at the car park, (where a film crew were setting up to film a pop video for some bloke from Westlife - we didn't hang around for an autograph!)

Then finally we had Monday. The team consisted of Victoria, David and his son Rory, Peter, Gill and Diane (recovered from her bug). The forecast was for more wind and rain, particularly in the middle of the day, so we stuck to our planned 9am start from Ballachulish. The plan was for both peaks of Beinn a'Bhethir, but by the splendid Schoolhouse ridge, a grade 1 scramble. We had a fine time, and the views were great most of the morning, before the clag moved in as we summited Sgor Dhearg. The wind never reached the 50mph gusts forecasted, and the rain wasn't as persistent as suggested, so our day was one of feeling we had snatched a good route. We dropped our sacks at the final bealach before ascending Sgorr Dhonuill, where we experienced that most welcome phenomena of the wind being thrown over the summit, creating still air on top - wonderful! It was then just a bog-trot down to relativley new path through the forest and back to the cars at Ballachulish. A satisfying end to a most successful weekend.....despite the forecast!

0 Comments

Glencoe delights....a tale of two meteorological halves

14/7/2015

3 Comments

 
July seems to be giving the forecasters a headache, as words like 'very low confidence' and 'uncertainty' seem ever-present right now. Geoff Monk on MWIS even quoted the fact that the different agencies were giving widely varying forecasts from the same computer models! The Low Pressure systems that are the cause can mean reasonable conditions one day, and wet ones the next. Monday was supposed to be drizzly in the morning, clearing mid-morning to dry, brightening in the afternoon. It rained all day, and the cloud never lifted over 800m. Hey ho! There was always Tuesday, wasn't there......?

I met Liam and Sam on Monday in Glencoe, and due to the yarn being spun by MWIS, we plumbed for the classic round of Bidean nam Bian, up Coire nan Lochan, then the NE ridge of Stob Coire nan Lochan and on to Bidean itself. The lads had a few munros between them before, and really enjoyed the easy scrambling up the ridge, despite the greasy rock. They had to take my word for it that there were some spectacular views to be had as we munched our lunch on the summit. (John West pasta salads...a good idea for taking to the Alps for lunch at the end of the month N.B. Good idea fellas!).

I was happy to see the bank of snow on the headwall of the Hidden Valley had finally gone as we passed it to summit Stob Coire Sgreamhach. After bagging the munro, we returned that way, and the guys got a taste of some undignified scrabbling down the lovely eroded gully into the valley. The scree gave Sam a few issues as he bum-surfed occasionally on the unfamiliar terrain, much to Liam's amusement - What are mates for but to enjoy your less dignified moments eh? This soon gave way to some large snow fields in which I kicked steps to facilitate our crossing to the path proper, and it was then just a case of follow our nose down into the atmospheric Hidden Valley, to where some of the survivors of the Glencoe Massacre are supposed to have fled.

Today, the meadow was 'full' of tourists, Americans, Australians and other indeterminate nationalities, all clicking away and ooing and ahhing. We joined in. It is so pretty and well worth a visit if you have a couple or three hours to spend and don't want to go too high.

The evening was spent in the Clachaig, where I continued to 'educate' the lads on the delights of Glencoe, and we bumped into the nice Aussie couple again too, so had a good old chin wag.

Tuesday dawned bright and was supposed to remain so until the afternoon, so the fact the guys needed to get South early meant the Wee Buachaille was a perfect choice. We zipped up the excellent new path well ahead of schedule (and Naismith's Rule, which the lads were testing out), and even timed ourselves to the first summit, Stob Coire Rainneach. The views more than made up for the day before, and gave a spectacular vantage point of the whole route we had done. It looked all the better for being a surprise as it were.

By the time we hit the last summit, Sam's legs were complaining that they hadn't been consulted on the effort required for two days following a lay off from the hills, and were most categorically NOT looking forward to the descent! Aren't legs fickle things? Just when you need them to perform, they start whinging and moaning eh!? The path helped however, and we were at the car bright and early, having had a cracking day out to augment the day before.

The remit had been for the team to enjoy themselves  experiencing some of Glencoe's delights, bag some munros, have a couple of good mountain days, whilst learning a thing or two. I enjoyed their company immensely, and I declare it was mission accomplished.

3 Comments

Northern UK odyssey part deux - Beaches, castles, hills and, er, shops!

10/7/2015

0 Comments

 
My blog will be reverting to normal next week as I take to the higher hills once again, but for now, I want to celebrate a good few other areas of our wonderful island for their diversity. We set off last Tuesday evening with no itinerary, and just a relaxed idea that we would meander South Eastwards towards a scooter meeting in Cleethorpes that weekend. That really is not like me, a consummate and compulsive planner, but you've got to give everything a go, haven't you?

We first went to St.Abbs on the North Berwickshire coast to see the cute working port, before over-nighting just outside the town. It was then breakfast at Eyemouth, a busy working port. We then drove down the coast to Bamburgh castle in Northumberland. The visit of here was fascinating, the castle having the usual medieval history augmented by the brilliant engineer Lord Armstrong in Victorian days. He restored the castle, and it remains in his family today, and it contains artefacts from his collections, as well as all sorts of engineering exhibits. An absorbing afternoon.

We wild camped outside Warkworth (another Northumberland castle), before visiting Berwick-upon-tweed with its Elizabethan ramparts, walled town and evidence of the turmoil of changing hands between England and Scotland 10 times over the centuries, not to mention some great architecture. The afternoon was spent driving to Acaster Malbis, just south of York, where we pitched up on the banks of the Ouse on an idyllic campsite.

As we had recently visited York and gorged on history at the museum, we decided to just cycle in along the river, and have a relaxed day where Tracey shopped and I grumbled for an hour, before reverting to a hostelry for cultural reasons of course!

After York it was Cleethorpes, where we stayed on the car-park of the go-karting track for the weekend! The self-sufficiency of motor-homes is fantastic for this kind of thing. We spent the weekend catching up with friends and dancing the night away at our regular scooter scene dances,  as well as a lot of convivial blethering in various pubs of course.

Monday was back on the culture trail cycling into Lincoln to see the castle, with its medieval and civil war history, as well as its Victorian jail, and of course, the Magna Carta in its new exhibition. It was so interesting, we were glad the cathedral was open late or we wouldn't have been able to do it justice. This was our longest day of culture-vulturing, and the history was so interesting, the wealth and breadth of things to see and learn about so overwhelming, that Tracey had no time to catch the shops. Gutted I was!

Tuesday we headed West to Buxton, and visited Poole Cavern, ideal in the rain that day. It is a deep limestone cave, with lots of history both prehistric and modern, let alone geological of course. We wild camped at the foot of Mam Tor near Edale, and nipped up in the evening, planning a longer walk on the Weds. Unfortunately, Weds was really wet, so we passed the morning driving North to Malham Cove with its spectacular 200ft+ cliff of limestone, and intricate limestone pavement. That night we camped at Sedbergh on a very quiet, secluded and idiosyncratic farm site.

The following day we took a taxi to Cautley, and did a circular walk on the rolling Howgill Fells. Cautley Spout was very pretty, despite the low rainfall, and the walk up onto the fell tops steep. We cooed at the views over Morecambe Bay, Silverdale, Grange-over-Sands and of course the Lake District as we romped along the excellent limestone path that undulated over the tops, before descending to Sedbergh in time to catch the shops (you have to please everyone!).

Thursday night Tracey was treated to the poshest campsite toilets in the World at Braithewaite in the Lakes, as well as a nice meal in the Royal Oak, a favourite walker's pub.  The weather for Friday was poor for walking, so it was back off to Scotland.

And so ended our 820m round trip, as we came home today. Not my usual tale of mountains and the like, but a huge amount crammed into a short time, and we could have done so much more had we more time. Our island is packed with history, interest and beauty, and despite how far and wide I have travelled, this trip showed me how much more I have to see without leaving our shores.

0 Comments

    Archives

    August 2020
    July 2020
    May 2020
    February 2020
    December 2019
    August 2019
    June 2019
    May 2019
    April 2019
    February 2019
    December 2018
    November 2018
    October 2018
    September 2018
    August 2018
    July 2018
    June 2018
    May 2018
    April 2018
    March 2018
    February 2018
    January 2018
    December 2017
    November 2017
    October 2017
    August 2017
    July 2017
    June 2017
    May 2017
    April 2017
    March 2017
    February 2017
    January 2017
    December 2016
    November 2016
    October 2016
    September 2016
    August 2016
    July 2016
    June 2016
    May 2016
    April 2016
    March 2016
    February 2016
    January 2016
    December 2015
    November 2015
    October 2015
    September 2015
    August 2015
    July 2015
    June 2015
    May 2015

    Categories

    All

Proudly powered by Weebly
Proudly powered by Weebly