Having tussled with the midges last weekend on An Teallach, it was with trepidation that I made my way North again on Friday last for a back-packing trip into Fisherfield, 'the Great Wilderness'. I was working for Steven Fallon Mountain Guides, and collected Nick at Stirling, George at Perth and Mike at Inverness, before meeting the rest of the team at Corrie Hallie. John, Stevie, Diane and Adam were already there checking kit in the sunshine, and there was a breeze too, so I was happy.

We set off on the path that brings you down to Shenavall bothy, and the expanding views and fine weather distracted us from the weights of our packs. After looking in at the bothy, it was off with the boots and on with the crocs for the crossing of the Abhainn Strath na Sealga, which is a river that can be quite problematic when in spate. Today it was a skoosh, and we splashed happily across in the pleasingly cool water. Another 40 minutes brought us to our camp spot for the weekend, a wee island of smooth grass in the Abhainn Gleann na Muice, and we pitched our tents and prepared a meal. The evening view back to An Teallach was beautiful, with the sun igniting the reds and greys of the sandstone and quartzite in turn. The rain came on just as we finished eating, so it was an early night.

During the night I needed to get some water, and was a little concerned that as I left my tent there was no wind. I was right to be. The midges hordes were out. Breakfast was a hurried affair, and we were away for 07:45am, pleased to be moving and away from the clouds of wee biting critters. Poor Diane had forgotten her midge hat, and had a few additional red freckles to add to her complexion!

With the removal of Beinn a'Chlaidheim from the munro list, it is now possible to avoid it from our route by ascending Eastwards to Loch a'Bhrisidh up rough but relatively easy-angled terrain, and then take the grassier ascent of Sgurr Ban. This we did, having paused at the loch for an atmospheric snack, where we saw a little newt, quite rare these days. The ascent is relentless, but it is still easier than the boulder field farther to the East. It is a shame to miss off Beinn a'Chlaidheim, as it is a fine peak, but it does make the demanding Fisherfield round a little less so from a camp site in the Gleann na Muice.

From the quartzite boulders on Sgurr Ban, we crossed to sandstone at the summit of Mullach Coire Mhic Fhearchair, where we discussed the route ahead. Would we descend as planned after Beinn Tarsuinn, taking the route down Gleann na Muice, or would we continue on to get all 5 munros today? A text came in from Steven who had seen the forecast. Sunday afternoon was to be sunny, but very windy indeed, following heavy rain in the morning. So the plan needed a review. The majority were in favour of pressing on - the weather was good, the views excellent, and the prospect of a long night in Midge Central did not appeal. One person was concerned about their tiredness, but was prepared to press on for the team.

We crossed to Beinn Tarsuinn by the excellent path that skirts Meall Garbh, and then made the pull up to the summit, with its excellent boulder on which to pose, with the Gleann and An Teallach as a backdrop. The descent includes the flat feature known as the 'tennis court', and we all agreed we did not fancy being a ball-boy!

By now some of the group were feeling the effects of the rough ground that characterise this demanding route of 23k and more than 2000m of ascent/descent, so as we crossed Pollan na Muice towards A'Mhaighdean, it would be fair to say a little encouragement was necessary. The Fisherfield round, (be it 5 or 6) is a committing and challenging day, and the wet and hag-ridden area before A'Mhaighdean's easy slopes are usually where folks really feel it. and today was no exception. Stevie made a detour to find good water, and this was appreciated by more than one person!

Eventually we made the summit of the most remote munro, to be rewarded by the famous view NW. It was my fourth time there, and the first time I have had the view, so I was most happy. After a pause for photos and snacks, we descended to the high bealach between there and our final munro, Ruadh Stac Mor. Nick decided he had had enough ascending for the day, and set off down the stalker's path which was to be our descent. The rest of us made the loose and bouldery climb to our last summit, a satisfying fifth munro for the day.

We had decided to use the stalker's path rather than make the bouldery descent NE off Ruadh Stac Mor, and that meant we caught up with Nick, who had waited at the river crossing before the main path, resplendent in his midge hat - Yes, they were out again. All that then remained was the long walk back to Gleann na Muice and our tents, which we all made whilst praying for a breeze.

The forecast was for strengthening winds, but it just didn't happen. (Odd how you can be dreading wind usually, but hoping for it in this instance). We got to the camp to find clouds of midges, so all we could do was dive into our tents and zip the inners tight. I would estimate I zipped a couple of thousand in with me, and spent the night squashing them whilst they in turn fed on me. If you add that to the fact I had had toothache since Thursday night, I didn't really enjoy my idyllic wild camp. Boo hoo!

Sunday dawned bright, but the wind that picked up a little in the small hours died again, so we hurriedly packed and headed for Shenavall. By the time we got there, the wind was strong, and the sun was out. We decided on a late breakfast, as no-one had been able or willing to prepare anything at camp, and we were lucky that the bothy inhabitants were having a lie in, probably due to their carry oots judging by the remnants!

Suitably fortified, we set off for the 3hr tramp back to Corrie Hallie in the glorious if hazy sunshine, revelling in the warm, strong wind that was blowing the midge corpses from our hair and their memory from our minds....well, almost. The fitter members were soon away, and luckily the rest of the party were all sharing transport, so were able to have a rewarding pint together at the Dundonnell hotel.

The trip was thus cut short by a day, which would usually spell despondency. That wasn't the case though - We had achieved our goal of the five munros, we had had a briefly enjoyable but memorable spell in an idyllic camp spot. We had had constant views whilst on the hills, and even the weather which finally forced the exodus was a warm but very strong wind, positively welcome after the grey, damp stillness of midgemageddon. This trip had been originally planned for May, but was postponed due to the wintery weather then. We knew summer was a risk, but it was worth it to get the day on the hill we did. Irvine Butterfield in his book 'The High Mountains' says 'these are some of the finest viewpoints, if not the finest, in all of Scotland, and a visit is an unforgettable experience'. He was not wrong.

On Tuesday I met with my friend Joe for an ascent of Tower Ridge. He particularly wanted to do this as a preamble to doing the Matterhorn next month, and had already done Ledge Route and Curved Ridge, so it seemed a natural progression.

We had absolutely perfect conditions, and had a really enjoyable ascent, wallowing in the atmosphere, views and exposed situations. OK, it isn't the Matterhorn, but it's still probably one of the UK's best climbs in those conditions. We had planned another day out today, but on the descent down into Coire Leis Joe rolled a boulder onto his finger, which was left very bruised and painful. Ouch! Ah well, that's how it goes sometimes. Still, with the pics above, you can see we have some great memories.

The day finished with post-climb pint and meal at the Clachaig and a few future plans. Not a bad way to spend a Tuesday.

This weekend I was up in the beautiful North West, working for Steven Fallon Mountain Guides on the incomparable An Teallach, Suilven and Liathach. I was working alongside MIA Dave Buckett who was bravely camping each evening with his partner and their dog. I say bravely, as the midges were as bad as I have ever seen them. The forecast was relatively fair, with high cloud and little wind, but mixed in with a lot of humidity and the occasional drizzly shower, it was heaven for the patient midge hordes, who had been awaiting such a time in this poor summer of ours.

For day one we met at Corrie Hallie for our walk into the lonely wilds of Fisherfield - Wrong. It was far from lonely. There was a charity walk on from there to Poolewe, so we shared the start of the walk with pipers, MRT volunteers (in seriously professional  midge protective hats) and coach-loads of walkers. The ones in the kilts I really felt for!

Due to the fact we could hardly pause for fear of being drained of blood, Sue, Lisa, Mags, Steve O, Steve S, Martin and John made good time to the top of Sail Liath at 954m, where we got a good if intermittent view of the Corrag Bhuidhe pinnacles and the rest of An Teallach. We made our way across the ridge in a welcome cool  breeze, (a little too cool for August at 6c) to the start of the steeper ground, where Dave took Steve S. up some more technical ground on a rope, whilst I led the team to the foot of the start of the scrambling. This is a short, steep but wet and slimy step, and we decided to protect it, which turned out to be the best decision. It was then a case of choosing the best line around paths, up shallow gullies and over the crest where amenable for some airy scrambling.

Some of the team were happy that the drops were often shrouded in mist, but everyone enjoyed a wee peep over Lord Berkeley's Seat, the precipitous perch on which the eponymous young aristocrat was supposed to have dangled his legs. From there it's a short scramble on to the first munro of Sgurr Fiona at 1060m, before dropping North North East to the bealach and ascending the second, Bidein a'Glas Thuill at 1062, our highest point of the day. The descent was down the grassy and remote Glas Tholl, and gradually down past a lovely waterfall, before a spell of Rhododendron jungle where we had some fun keeping to the path - 'Oh ye of little faith', I told you it was the path!

A really good day, but we weren't able to linger to congratulate each other due to culicoides impunctatus and her friends' welcoming committee!

Sunday we decided to drive to Lochinver to make the long walk to Suilven slightly easier. We met at Knockan Crag car park, where Dave and his lass were again doing battle with the Winged Hordes. I refused to leave my van until the very last minute, which unfortunately was to bump start his car. They had run the battery down using the blowers to minimise the midges in the car. Hell on Earth 'twas! 'Come on a wee camping trip, it'll be great'....he said ;)

Today's group was less Martin who had gone home, and Steve O who was on Slioch. We again made good time along the track, and only had one shower before the steep ascent of the Bealach Mor. This was the most midge-ridden ascent I have ever had due to the fact we were sheltered from the breeze, and we ate them, breathed them in and suffered the wee blighters right to the top. But what a top! Coming out on that bealach, out of the midges, to that view, and the applause of everyone else waiting there (we shared the route with a few other groups), will live with me for a good while. Anyone who has been up Suilven will know what I mean. If you haven't, go!

After a snack, it was upwards past the 'Crazy Wall', which is a dry stone wall of incredible quality. I tried to find out details of why it is there and why of such high quality, but there only seems to be speculation rather than fact. Either way, a lot of men must have had a back-breaking time up there for such a folly, but it is beautiful, if incongruous.  The wide summit of Casteal Liath at 731m punches way above its weight for views, not least back to the Eastern summit of Meall Meadhonach. This is much narrower, and required some nifty rope work to get a couple of our party up the rocky step safely, but those that dared its rocky ramparts were very satisfied on the descent. Well done!

There is not much to commend the walk out from Suilven due to its length and initial bog, but the memories of this splendid mountain, along with its ever-changing shape as you walk, make the whole experience well worth it, munro or not.

Monday's forecast was even better, and the sunnier spells meant less midges, awwoohoo.  Dave, Steve S and Mags left us, but Steve O returned, so it was another team of 4 that set off up Liathach with me. We made good time to the top of the scree path, and were just resting when a young girl and who appeared to be her dad joined us, but headed off towards the coire on a false trod. I sagely called after them to advise them of the way, but dad informed me that they were going to scramble up the coire instead. I recognised him then as Paul Tattersall, a mountain guide famous for rapid traverses of the Skye Ridge in record times, so I suppose he was going to be OK as they disappeared rapidly into the depths of the coire!

We continued on the 'trade route', with ever increasing views, which just stayed with us all day. The Coullin hills, East to Fisherfield beyond Beinn Eighe, North West to Beinn Alligin, North to Beinn Dearg and beyond. Beautiful. After a couple of 'moments' on the narrow ridge towards munro Spidean a'Coire Leith, one of our group was wondering whether this was for them. The rest of the group encouraged them on, and after the summit, we pressed on for the Am Fasarinen pinnacles.

The pinnacles are the 'main course' on Liathach, great stacks of sandstone pancakes with a myriad of ways over and around them. I always like to take the direct route if possible, as this gives the biggest impression, and I also find the bypass path precipitous. Myself and group encouraged the more worried members, and we moved with increasing confidence across the rocks. Steve O even opted for some 'gratuitous scrambling' as I call it, where take a deliberately more challenging line, despite his initial reticence for scrambling. Another convert.

Before long we were lunching with the scrambling behind us, all buoyed by the great weather, great views and marvellous rock.  Even Sue felt proud of herself to have faced her fears head on. Very well done! The last munro summit of Mullach na Rathain came next at 1023m, before the long descent to the cars. The path builders have been continuing their work in the coire, so keep up the good work guys!

It would fair to say there were a few tired legs at the bottom, but what a triplet of classics in the long weekend. I can even put up with the midges for those.....just!

Yesterday I was working for Nathan and Life Changing Challenges, on the first leg of a UK 3 Peaks event, and his clients The Leadership Factor.

It was a lovely sunny morning, for the drive North, 17c, but forecast to worsen, with wind and rain peaking at 65mph gusts at 7pm. Well at least with a 1pm start, we should be off the hill for then, thought I. My first concern came as I wrestled my way up the A84 past cyclist, caravan and motorhome one after the other, along with a myriad of tourists driving at 35mph in a 50 zone, in case they spot some deer. Now I am all for a spot of sightseeing, and can admit to doing all of the above, but always with consideration for other road users - Pull over. Indicate. Anticipate. Please.....

Aaaanyway, I needn't have bothered - The guys, who were driving up from Sedgefield in England, were stuck on the A82 behind a crash. Doh! The planned 1pm start became a 4.15pm start. I watched the weather deteriorate gradually, and donned my waterproofs with a heavy heart.

Then the team arrived. My spirits rose as they leapt out of the van geared up and raring to go. Excellent! We shot off at a brisk pace, with not a concern for the dreich conditions. Metre after metre came and went, and we ascended steadily and efficiently. This was a fit and motivated group, always cheerful and really up for the challenge. The one team member that found it a struggle still got to 1000m before calling it a day, and making their way down with Paul, the other ML on the route.

Thankfully, though it was misty over 1000m, and raining most of the time, the wind stayed around 30-40mph, which whilst unpleasant, wasn't as bad as it could have been, and the temperature stayed at a balmy 4.8c - Well what do you expect in August? We made the summit in a very respectable 3.5hrs, and after a quick photo we headed down.

We were not quite as quick on the descent, with a couple of guys struggling with their knees, and a certain dearth of head torches due to the fact had we set off as planned, we wouldn't have needed them! Nevertheless, the smiles and banter never stopped until the welcome cup of tea at the car park at around 10.45pm.

Well done to all, and I hope the rest of the challenge went as well, and that you at least had a bit of luck with the roads and the weather.

Today I was working with the Air Cadets from 1769 (Thurso and District) ATC Squadron under the command of Flt. Lt. Fiona Macintosh, on their attempt at the UK's 10th highest mountain. This was a tall order, literally, as most of the guys had never walked up a mountain of this size, and especially after a packed week of activities.

We met in the car park at 410m, which saves a lot of effort, and along with a number of other adult support team and ML's, we set off around 10.30am. The weather was kind, if a little cool in the breeze, and we didn't need waterproofs all day, a rarity this 'summer'.

I was impressed with the cadets' fitness and tenacity, and despite the effort required, they made good progress up Beinn Ghlas, encouraging each other on. 'Sir' (the NCO), and 'Ma'am', (the officer) had equipped the guys with maps and a briefing, and along with points of flora and fauna, we discussed Naismith's rule and other navigational tips as we climbed.

The summit of Beinn Ghlas soon came, and we had a group photo before dropping a little to get out of the breeze for a bite to eat. Some of the team were a little daunted by the view of Ben Lawers, but they forgot this as they enjoyed the sunny descent to the bealach, some even singing 'She'll be coming round the Mountain'! At the bealach, one of the MLs went down with one of the adults, whilst the rest of the team pressed on for the summit, leapfrogging several other groups of Dutch, German and English folks as they ascended.

The guys at the front, led by Ross, Megan, JD and Iona showed their team spirit by suggesting they waited for the rest of the group before making the last 30m to the summit, and the group summited pretty much as one, being forced into high-fiving by their guide to celebrate the munro (!)

The descent was quick and event-free, (apart from Sir taking a wee slip from which he may well be stiff from in the morning!), and I think that shows the team are capable of more. I am sure they will have the energy for the planned evening entertainment.

I believe it is a trip to Edinburgh tomorrow, so I hope there won't be too many stiff legs, and I wish them all well for the future. A great squadron Ma'am, you should be proud!

I have visited the Brenta Dolomites five times now, using Molveno and its lovely lake as a base for family holidays, whilst nipping off and grabbing some excellent via ferrate (the plural!) to boot. I have done the West-East crossing of the Boccette Way from Pinzolo to Molveno via the 3C Sentiero Ideale and the 3C Livio Brentari, staying at the Rifugio XII Apostoli, and have had various attempts at the North-South classic Boccette Way. One was foiled by a badly sprained ankle, another by fitness and one by bad weather. This time we were better prepared, and later in the season, so it was game on!

I travelled with my two sons, John (20) and Frankie (17), and met my friend Jamie at Milan Malpensa airport for the 4hr drive to Madonna di Campiglio. After visiting Paul B at his hotel, we stayed at the excellent Rifugio Vallesinella, and then in the morning met the rest of the team at the cable car at Campo Carlo Magno, just North of Madonna. Mark, Hayley and Stewie were kitted up and ready to go, although it appeared Stew was going for the light and fast approach when comparing his tiny sack with ours! Always belt and braces me, and especially with my lads on board.

The weather was kind as we ascended in the cable car to 2505m to begin the first route, the 2C Sentiero Alberto Benini, the first on the Boccette Way. It takes around 4hrs climbing time, plus the descent to the Tuckett hut, and is a good ease-in for what is to follow. The exposure isn't too great, but the ever-present gravely paths without protection still focus your mind on the huge drops characteristic of the Dolomitic routes.  We had planned to finish by descending the vedretta (glacier) to the hut, but on seeing it from above, it was clear it would be better in ascent with limited snow gear, so took the improved and cabled path, pausing to bask in the sun and snack away in a most relaxed manner.

That evening we had simply excellent food for a hut, with a great choice, impressive quality, impeccable service and copious wine and beer. A great start....there were even showers!

The next day's forecast was much cooler, single digit, with cloud and rain first thing, forecast to dry a little. We waited until the rain cleared, and made a late start up the vedretta. It isn't very steep, but steep enough to get the heart racing along with the effort, especially when you have two offspring to worry about, (something I am still having to work on as a leader - Clients no problem. Family I struggle with!). We made the climb in the dry, but the rain started as we commenced the main course of the trip, the 4C Boccette Alte, waymarked 'solo per experte'. Is that us? ;)

The first section is excellent, steep and well protected, and we soon learned that the limestone is actually surprisingly grippy despite the dreich conditions. The next section  is typical exposed, unprotected paths, that I particularly find unnerving. Odd really, as once on even more exposed terrain I am fine, even if unprotected, as long as the rock is sound. Then comes the 'sectione difficile', my previous 'high point' as it were. Previously Jamie and I had found the cables snow covered, and had wisely turned back. I am very glad we did. It is long, crazily exposed and absolutely absorbing VF, highly enjoyable but very committing. A proper high mountain route to quote the guidebook.

Airy ledge, and vertical ladders came and went, and the rain persisted. By the time we got to the first 'junction', we had become disoriented in the mist, and mistakenly thought we were much farther along the route. In fact, we arrogantly decided we had done the next route, the Centrale too! We rang the Tosa hut to arrange beds for the night, rested, ate, and pressed on in the mist and rain. If we had properly assessed the time against the guidebook, or took the time to read off the co-ordinates on my GPS against the map, (MUCH harder to do than on an OS map, I can tell you), we would have realised. The constant up, down and along makes timing and directions very difficult to estimate, and we were well out. The seriousness of the atmosphere was added to as we were making the very thin and exposed traverse to the Boccetta Basso dei Massodi at 2796m (the point where the Olivia Detassis route we were looking for joins the Alte). A stemple came out just as I leaned on it in a new section of cabling that appeared to be necessitated by rockfall, and I swung a little outwards. The rest of the cable held fine, but it got the heart racing!

Finally we spied a glaciated col (or bocca in Italian), and took it for the Bocca di Brenta, just before the Tosa hut. Stewie descended quickly, and confused me by heading further down. I shouted that the hut was over the bocca, but he pointed out what I couldn't yet see, the Alimonta hut, where we were supposed to be after all. It was a relieved and tired team that traipsed across the moraines in the torrential rain. What a day. Totally absorbing, serious feeling and exhilarating.

The Alimonta would have seemed a brilliant hut too, had it not been for the exemplary Tuckett hut the night before, and had some eccentric, domineering staff and management, who argued with each other in the animated way that Italians do. We were all ushered to bed at 22:00, but we were ready anyway, mentally and physically tired. Sunday's forecast was good, despite the torrential rain in the night. I slept poorly, and apparently snored, though I have never heard myself! ;)

Sunday dawned wet, but rapidly improved into a bright day, with high cloud building to give PM showers. The day was set for a busy crossing of the Boccette Centrale. This is an absolute classic, at 3C, with fabulous ledges, unprotected scrambling and utterly breathtaking rock architecture. The Campanile Basso rears into view and leaves one speechless as you rest at the many vantage points to just gawp. The many wee traffic jams gave time to do this, though did give folk the time to notice the sucking exposure.  Wonderful in the clear morning air.

After 4 hours of clipping, climbing, descending and almost crawling on the ledges, the Bocca di Brenta really did appear, and suddenly it was all over. All we had to do now was a 3 hour descent down the 318 path that takes a splendid belvedere route via two more refuges to Vallesinella. We celebrated my finally getting the route in the bag with a few beers at them, and revelled in the smells and views of an Alpine path par excellence.

That evening was taken up with a slap-up meal and celebratory drink in Madonna, where Stewie entertained the bar with some ethnic Black Country folk dancing (!), and then we had a day's R&R in Riva del Garda before our respective flights.

So I finally managed the Boccette Way. It was everything I hoped for, plus some, and anyone who feels VF's are sanitised mountaineering should get on a high route such as these. They are a mountain journey, not a gymnastic course. They allow you to enjoy some incredible positions in relative safety, without compromising the very real feel of being in the high mountains. Sunday was busy, but the challenging weather and difficult nature of the Alte meant we did not see many folks on that. The huts are quite extraordinary, the food plentiful and high quality, and the people friendly. I feel my days in the Brenta are not over.

Thanks to John, Frankie, Stewie, Hayley, Mark, Paul and Jamie for being good company on a great trip.